Teardrop Peak


Teardrop Peak is a most excellent adventure.

Note: click images to see a larger version in a new window

When we climbed Burnside Peak, Tom had the nerve to tell me it wasn't a real peak, but that this one was. Well!

So I put it on my list and started doing a little research. In my case, research mostly means looking through all the photos I've taken. Sure enough, there it is just right of center as seen from Cly Peak. Also note the long east ridge extending sort of toward the camera.


The east ridge is the obvious line, if you overlook the fact that Lick Creek range peaks tend to have tons of gendarmes. And here's proof from other research- the east ridge extending from the summit on the left down to the valley on the right.. This taken from a climb of Beaverdam.


So, on to the climb. First, we parked at Summit Lake, remarkable because in a normal year, snow would prevent you from making it much past Slick Rock.

Then we worked our way across the grain (try it, you'll see what I mean by 'grain'), finally getting our first view of the peak after about an hour of hiking.

Hmmm....how's that ridge looking?


From there, it's a fairly flat approach until you get to the toe of the ridge, seen here.

The map indicated several possibilities for easier routes, but the ridge was just too cool looking to pass up. Julie gave me the stink-eye when I told her the plan, but it was simply to go as far as we could, summit or not.

The lower part of the ridge was very scenic and very easy. But up above... well, we'll see. Trailhead

We climbed on the snow some, but it was getting steeper and the run-out looking less inviting. So we instead focused on the rock.

Somewhere just above here, we ran into an awkward mantle that required a high heel hook. Julie wasn't feeling it.

So we slithered around into the moat, then did two different routes. Mine had some tres awkward chimney moves, an arm bar, and a butt skootch. NOT hiking. I managed to get up before Julie, so latched ahold of her pack straps and sort of dragged her up the last of her route.

OK we're up. That is going to be quite interesting to downclimb.

Naturally, no pics of the truly exciting parts.


Meanwhile, things were looking slightly better above us.

Note that the snow was slightly slushy for a few inches, then firm underneath. And we did not have ice axes.

The camera makes this look broader than it was, and you can't see the drop-off. For reference, go back to the previous pic. Somewhere in here is where the peak earned its name when I made my wife cry. Trailhead
Just to add some drama, somewhere about here it started to sprinkle a little. There was dramatic weather all around, and I was watching for places to shelter -assuming it didn't turn electrical. Trailhead

The last little bit, I found a go-around to allow us to climb on dry ground (dirt).

Here's the summit, now in the sunshine. Putting on rain gear will do that.

I had a blast. Julie isn't so sure. Maybe she's thinking about the downclimb?


When you take your wife on a climb like this, you should make the most of the long pauses... and I had.

As we worked across the ridge, I had spotted this chute on the southern side of the summit. So we were able to get off without much trouble.


Once off the summit, we still needed to traverse back to our ascent path. I chose to stay high, which provided some more fun climbing.

This was one of the most fun climbs I've done in a long time. Note that we made significant progress up the ridge on snow. If it were all melted, I don't know what it would be like.



Pat's TR of what I think is the same peak.


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