Peak 10805


Another great peak up the East Fork, Peak 10805 kept us entertained on a beautiful day.

After quite a few emails, with many ideas tossed around, we decided on Peak 10805 in the Pioneers. It fit Michael's criteria of close to Ketchum where he was relaxing with his family. It fit my criteria as something new up the East Fork. And it fit Tom 1's criteria as a fun challenge, even though he had climbed it just a couple of months before. Tom 2 didn't seem particular one way or the other, although he later determined that it fit his criteria of "it's not really climbing unless you get at least a little bit scared."

So Tom, Tom, and I made a civilized start, rolling out of Boise at just a bit after 6. We picked up Michael at his motel in Ketchum at about 8:45 and were rolling up to our peak in the bright morning sunshine. That's it, dead ahead.

Peak 10805 from the road

We bumped our way up the road in the Suby, stopping perhaps 300 yards short of the PK Pass trailhead (7900'), because the road looked to worsen. We could have driven the last bit, but it did give us a chance to warm up before we started up the hill.

This road is no where near as bad as the Sawmill Gulch road I drove last weekend.

PK pass trail

After a pleasant and somewhat snowy stroll up the trail, we cut off just short of the pass to start up this crap. This is talus at its worst: big, tippy blocks with snow covering the holes. And lots of it. I'd gladly trade this for some of that smaller, slidy stuff just so I didn't have to worry about breaking an ankle. And Oh- we came down the same way!


After about 600' of that crap, it was a relief to gain the ridgetop at about 10,000'. However, the going was not a lot easier because we were still dealing with rock partially hidden by soft snow.

The highpoint just right of center is point 10460, the beginning of the actual ridgetop.

Starting the ridge

As we got closer to point 10460, things got a little steeper. It was quite fun, and the views all around us were amazing.

Tom 1 was guiding, and he explained that we should traverse right without hitting the top of point 10460.

Point 10460

Once you get around the shoulder of point 10460, this is what you see. It's a long traverse across a steep hillside covered by rocks with varying degrees of looseness. And about 8 inches of snow on top for interest. We moved carefully.

Start of the traverse

The most intimidating looking area was a short gully that was steeper and had some suspicious-looking rock clogging the obvious line. But you could avoid the loose blocks by moving out to the side, albeit by adding to the exposure slightly.

That is Tom 2 climbing, but Michael is visible behind him in the bigger version of the picture.

(Tom Lopez photo)

Tom climbs the gully

It took us just over three hours from the car to reach the summit. There was a light breeze, but not bad. We enjoyed a nice lunch with stunning views of Old Hyndman, Mac and Jaq, Big Basin and the Box, and Brocky.

Then it was time to head down. Starting the descent
Other than the nasty, dangerous talus heap discussed previously, this chute was probably the crux of the climb. We argued about its difficulty, but I call it Class 4. It's not technically difficult, but it is potentially dangerous due to loose rock, and also somewhat exposed.
Starting the descent

On the summit the wind had made it chilly. But down in the protection of the ridge where we were traversing, it was almost hot. The traverse went on and on, and in the sun the snow was wet and slippery. There are three climbers in this picture trying not to slip.

(Tom Lopez photo)

Some of the traverse was a little spooky in the sun-softened snow. We took our time and watched our foot placements. When we finally got back into the shade, it was with some relief that we noted the snow was firmer. Starting the descent
Here I have drawn in our approximate line of ascent/descent. Click for a bigger version. Route

It was with relief that we noted the end of the traverse. That's Grays Peak in the late-afternoon, shady background.

Just that one more heap of crappy talus to descend, and then it was a downhill trail cruise back to the car.

When we got back to the highway, the sun was down and the temperature was dropping. Michael's family was waiting in the car at the highway (oops). Then we grabbed pizza in Hailey and we were on our way home.

PS- Tom 1 says the locals also call this peak Iron Mountain.

Starting the descent

Mr. Natural Home | 2008 | Back to top of page | Questions :: e-mail to splattski